GS500
This is my first motorcycle - a 2001 Suzuki GS500k1. I bought it in October of 2003, with about 3000 miles on the odometer. All I have to say is that it's the most fun I've had out of 37hp ;o]
If you're looking for information on GS500s, try the
GSTwin site and their
forum.
Modifications: National Cycle F18 screen; Progressive springs; Srinath case savers.
Mazda3
My first new car, woo! It is a 2005 sand Mazda3i. I bought it after a nice lady
folded my old car in half. So far, aside from a little trouble seeing anything when backing up, I have only good things to say for it :). I'll have a photo up as soon as I'm not lazy (that's not going to be very soon, so don't hold your breath).
Modifications: FIAMM low-tone horn addon to beef up the tiny beep.
If you are curious, you can view my
greasemonkey work log.
|
Model |
Date |
Mileage ↑ |
Job Type |
Job Name |
Comments
|
|
Mazda3 |
2012.03.29 |
79000 |
Maintenance |
Headlight |
show
|
[hide]
Passenger side low-beam burned out.
Replaced both sides with Osram H7 Rallye (+65W) bulbs (65w, 2100 lumens, 500 hours).
Bought them on ebay from a guy in Hong-Kong |
|
Mazda3 |
2011.12.01 |
76795 |
Maintenance |
Oil Change |
show
|
[hide]
motocraft 5w-20 ~ 4.5qt
motocraft FL400S filter (slightly larger)
auto-rx 3-4oz (maintenance doze) |
|
Mazda3 |
2011.12.01 |
76784 |
Maintenance |
Tire Rotation |
show
|
[hide]
front to back; same side; all wheels balanced |
|
Mazda3 |
2011.07.01 |
73628 |
Maintenance |
Brakes |
show
|
[hide]
Replaced rear rotors and pads. In comparison to the new ones, had <25% of pads left. Did not really need rotors replaced, as there was minimal wear and they were both smooth.
- Centric C-Tek "standard" rotors (121.45066)
- Centric "premium" pads (shimmed) (300.09730)
- Used "brake tool" from Advanced Auto for rear caliper pistons (worked OK).
- Need 7mm hex key
- Need 21mm socket for lug nuts |
|
Mazda3 |
2011.06.21 |
72756 |
Maintenance |
Alignment |
show
|
[hide]
Alignment @ Kauffman Tire -- $80 with 12K miles / 12 month warranty
Had them check brakes that confirmed that rear pads and rotors need replacement, while fronts are still good (~50% pad left) |
|
Mazda3 |
2011.06.21 |
72753 |
Maintenance |
Tire Change |
show
|
[hide]
Michelin HydroEdge 205/55-R16 @ DiscountTire.
Replaced Goodyear TripleTread, which were good, but lasted only 40 out of promised 80K miles. Got a tread warranty discount because of that.
Purchased Free Replacement certificates as insurance |
|
Mazda3 |
2011.06.20 |
72746 |
Maintenance |
Oil Change |
show
|
[hide]
done @ dealer
LF05-14-302A filter + gasket
5w20 gastrol GTX
autorx 3-4oz maintenance dose
Note: tech noted that rear brake pads and rotors need replacement -- quoted $400 for the job. Fronts are still good |
|
Mazda3 |
2011.01.04 |
69630 |
Maintenance |
Tire Rotation |
n/a
|
[hide]
n/a |
|
Mazda3 |
2011.01.04 |
69630 |
Maintenance |
Oil Change |
show
|
[hide]
Changed at the dealer
- LF05-14-302A filter w/ gasket
- 5w20 Gastrol GTX
auto-rx 3-4oz (maintenance doze) |
|
Mazda3 |
2010.11.29 |
68744 |
Maintenance |
Battery Change |
show
|
[hide]
Replaced battery @ Sam's Club
Energizer "group size 35" |
|
Mazda3 |
2010.07.13 |
65990 |
Maintenance |
Tire Rotation |
show
|
[hide]
Front to back, same side
all wheels balanced
32psi |
|
Mazda3 |
2010.06.03 |
64325 |
Maintenance |
Carbon Clean |
show
|
[hide]
Although my rough-idle issue has apparently improved, I decided to do a few more related maintenance things...
Cleaned Mass Airflow (MAF) sensor and throttle body:
- took off engine cover, battery cover, battery air vent
- unhooked negative terminal from battery
- unplugged MAF and other sensor connectors from air intake hose
- took off the air filter box cover, along with hose and resonator
- took out the MAF sensor from the hose and cleaned with CRC MAF sensor cleaner
- disconnected 2 (vacuum?) hoses and connector from throttle body
- removed 4 screws and throttle body came loose
- cleaned it with CRC throttle body & air intake cleaner (throttle body was pretty black with buildup)
- reassembled
Car restarted fine and idles well right now... will see if the rough idle returns.
If idle issue returns/continues, then will clean the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve. See:
http://www.mazda3club.com/showthread.php?t=41077
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=94788 |
|
Mazda3 |
2010.06.01 |
64300 |
Maintenance |
Oil Change |
show
|
[hide]
motocraft 5w-20 ~ 4.3qt
mazda filter #LF05-14-302A
auto-rx 3-4oz (maintenance doze)
Found Royal Purple filter 10-2835 @ PepBoys. It was $15, so I passed on it.
OEM filters are still expensive. Consider Purolator PureOne or Motorcraft FL400S next time. (Note: the 400s is slightly larger, will require more oil) |
|
Mazda3 |
2010.06.01 |
64300 |
Maintenance |
Radiator Flush |
show
|
[hide]
** This coolant should last 5yrs/60,000 miles!
[Materials]
- Peak Global Lifetime concentrated coolant (1gal) (only at NAPA) ~$13
- Distilled water (3gal)
[Procedure]
- cool engine
- unscrew radiator drain plug (left lower corner)
- if plug removed, fluid will SHOOT!
- stupid drain poorly designed - spills and splatters
- open coolant tank plug (to allow fluid to drain)
- radiator will drain ~1gal
- once drained, put drain plug back in
- refill tank w/ 1 gal distilled water and close
- turn on car and allow to warm up
- turn on heat on floor on high, for 5-10 mins
- this allows coolant to circulate through heater core
- turn off car, allow to cool, repeat
- after the last gal of water circulates and is drained off, fill tank with coolant
- this should result in about 50-50 mix of coolant and water (1gal coolant filled + 1gal water in system)
- leave cap off, run car
- once warm, blip the throttle a few times
- this should get rid of air bubbles
- close cap
- after driving around for a bit, recheck level and fill with distilled water. |
|
Mazda3 |
2010.04.06 |
61900 |
Maintenance |
Tire Rotation |
show
|
[hide]
front to back; same side; all wheels balanced |
|
Mazda3 |
2010.02.21 |
60571 |
Maintenance |
Oil Change |
show
|
[hide]
motocraft 5w-20 ~ 4.3qt
mazda filter #LF05-14-302A
auto-rx 3-4oz (maintenance doze)
try Royal Purple filter 10-2835 @ pep boys next time |
|
Mazda3 |
2009.11.20 |
58160 |
Maintenance |
Oil Change |
show
|
[hide]
motocraft 5w-20 ~ 4qt
purolator L10241 (I couldn't find the right Motorcraft filter in Walmart or AutoZone)
part of AutoRx, step2 |
|
Mazda3 |
2009.10.16 |
55550 |
Maintenance |
Carbon Clean |
show
|
[hide]
Auto-Rx Basic Clean Part#1
Added 12oz of Auto-Rx to oil. |
|
Mazda3 |
2009.10.16 |
55550 |
Miscellaneous |
Sway Bar |
show
|
[hide]
Inspected rear sway bar links. Nothing appears loose. Did not notice stripped bolt threads. |
|
Mazda3 |
2009.10.11 |
55340 |
Maintenance |
Carbon Clean |
show
|
[hide]
I have been having a rough idle / hesitation problem for several months. Instead of paying $170 to the dealer for an induction service (which may or may not help), I am attempting a few DIY measures first.
Today I used Seafoam.
Seafoam in the intake:
---------------------
[materials]
1 can seafoam (16oz)
~1ft of 3/8in hose (I used 'gas' hose) for autozone
[steps]
0. measure out ~1/3 can (I used 6-7oz) of seafoam into a open shallow container (I used a water bottle cut in half)
1. turn off car
2. locate the vacuum line going into the front of the engine to the left of the throttle body. (it has a red clip holding it in place)
3. disconnect that line
4. attach spare 3/8" hose to the now-free nozzle
5. start car. my car really did not like this and bogged down trying to stall. it actually stalled once. I had to keep my thumb over the hose to keep it idling smoothly.
6. use the hose to slowly draw seafoam into the engine. I just held it to the surface to slurp the liquid instead of dipping the line in. Doing this slowly should prevent hydrolock, which apparently occurs if you go too fast. When the car sounded like it was about to stall, I put my thumb over the line for a few seconds to allow it to come to normal idle.
7. once all the fluid is in, turn off car
8. let sit 5-10 mins. i used this time to reconnect the original hose, etc.
9. start the car and go for a 15min ride
Much better write-up here: http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=111632.0
I put the remaining 8-9oz of seafoam into the gas tank. I did not put any in the crankcase/oil, because I plan on using Auto-Rx for that.
Some notes:
- no smoke while feeding seafoam
- appreciable amount of white smoke after the 10min wait and while driving around for 15 mins.
- idle apparently improved (no dips and shudders while sitting still)
** In retrospect: when I first tried to pull the vacuum line off the nozzle, it seemed a little loose. It is possible that this looseness is what kept the car from idling properly. |